When leaves fall, it’s best to compost

Most of central and western Oklahoma froze this last week so we are watching tree leaves fall all across our state. One of my pet peeves is seeing boxes and bags of these deceased but still beneficial leaves raked up and sent off to our over used landfills. This is a terrible waste of natural resources when we send used leaves to the dump. With a goal of sustainability and making the best use of our resources and not using more than we need, we continue to rake up this free and readily available organic matter and send it to a wasted life in a landfill pyramid.

I understand when we are nestled in urban neighborhoods with nearby neighbors there are safety and appearance issues where you may want or even need to rake up and collect your fallen leaves. Instead of throwing them away consider buying a compost bin, making your own or simply just creating a compost pile. You can contain it with wire or wood fencing, concrete blocks or just start a pile in a corner of the yard.

Composting natural vegetation involves the microbial decomposition of organic matter and produces a great soil amending compost of dark, partially decomposed material ready to add organic matter to your soils after 4 to 9 months in the pile. As microorganisms decompose the leafs and organic matter, temperatures can reach 150° F at the center of the pile. These high temperatures inside the pile kill most weed seeds and disease organisms. Locate the compost pile where there is good drainage and no standing water. To reach the right temperatures the compost pile should be at least 4’ in diameter and 3’ tall when you start. Moisten the leaves periodically after you put them in the pile so they won’t blow away and to speed up the composting. To insure good availability of oxygen in the pile do not make your compost pile over about 5’ high and 10’ in diameter.

You can also add fresh vegetable trimmings and some grass clippings. Too much grass can cause an anaerobic reaction that can get smelly as grass clippings can draw all the oxygen from the pile. The microorganisms cannot function without water so make sure not to let your stack get totally dry. You can speed up the process by adding ½ cup of 10-20-10 type fertilizer for every 20 gallons of organic matter but this extra nitrogen is generally not necessary. Some folks like throwing a thin layer of garden soil on the pile to weight down the leaves and to add more of the natural microorganisms to help compost the pile. It is best not to compost diseased plants or weeds in flower or seed. During warm weather turn the pile about once a month or anytime the pile smells like ammonia or gives off other offensive odors.  

Try a compost pile or barrel to recapture these leaf nutrients and this wonderful organic matter instead of sending it to the dump this fall.

Have a happy Thanksgiving!

Biblical plants still grow in Holy Land

There is a lot of fall gardening still to be done. This is a great time to plant pansies, ornamental kale and cabbage to produce color all winter. It is time to select and plant your spring flowering bulbs like daffodils, hyacinth, crocus and tulips. It is time to move in your tender plants or take cuttings of plants you want to save for next spring.

I am writing this column in Israel while on an Ag Trade Mission to visit greenhouse and vegetable production operations and to learn more about their crop production in the desert with really limited water resources. We have been fortunate to visit many biblical history sites and it has gotten me thinking about the plants of the bible. More than 120 species of plants are mentioned in the bible. Most of these species still grow in their wild state in the Holy Land and many are used in our Oklahoma gardens. Plants are first mentioned in the first chapter of the first book of the bible in Genesis 1:11, “And God said, “Let the earth put forth vegetations, plants yielding seed and fruit trees bearing fruit in which is their seed, each according to its kind”.

We visited the Mount of Olives and the beautiful gardens of Gethsemene highlighted by gnarly old olive trees that were up to 4,000 years old. So they were very old even when Christ visited there 2009 years ago. At the Garden Tomb we saw wild roses, lilies, anemone, rose of sharon, mint, dill, coriander, mustard, provender (chick peas), leeks, onion and garlic that were mentioned in various bible verses and grow in Oklahoma.

At the Oasis where David visited at En-Gedi, we saw palms, tamarisk, oaks, cedar and fir trees, willows, poplar and sycamore trees, all mentioned in the bible.

We observed many edible fruits and berries mentioned in the bible including citron (goodly tree), mulberries, apples, walnuts, almonds, pistachio nuts and grapes. Other edible foods of the bible include figs, dates (palm trees), pomegranate, gourds and watermelons.

We saw many perseverant and determined Acacia trees as we drove across the deserts of southern Judea where Moses and the Israelites wandered for 40 years. Grain and bean crops are mentioned often in the bible including wheat and barley, beans and lentils, millet and spelt. Cotton, reeds, cattails and papyrus were used in everyday life for making clothes shoes, paper, flutes, boats and homes as described in the bible.

A visit to the desert in the south of Israel helps you to appreciate how exciting it must have been for Christ and his disciples to come up out of the harsh, dry desert and arrive into the much greener “Promised Land” of Jerusalem.

Fall color displayed in flowers, leaves

Fall is a great time to visit the colorful hardy mum gardens on the oval at the University of Oklahoma in Norman or to plant and enjoy hardy mums in your own yard. As your summer annuals start to wither with the cooler temperatures it is time to add spunky pansies to your sunny flowerbeds to enjoy all winter. It is time to plant flowering kale and cabbage, trees, shrubs and to sow tall fescue grass seed.

One of the best shows on earth is the changing fall colors on our deciduous trees and shrubs every autumn. Our trees have been cloaked in different tones of green leaves all summer. These leaves are literally millions of cells using natural sunlight to convert water and carbon dioxide into sugars in an amazing process called photosynthesis.

Every leaf contains three natural substances which are the pigments that determine leaf color. Chlorophyll   provides the green color, carotenoids provide yellow, orange and brown tones and anthocyanins provide the red tones. Chlorophyll and carotenoids are in all leaf cells, all the time, during the growing season but the chlorophyll covers up or overpowers the carotenoids so that we see green leaves during the growing season. Most anthocyanins are produced only in the fall and then only in certain conditions and not in all trees.

Chlorophyll is the most important as it enables the plant to use sunlight to produce food. Carotenoids produce the bright yellows and oranges we see in many fruits and vegetables like corn, carrots and bananas. Anthocyanins add the red we see in apples, cherries, strawberries and cranberries.

As the days get shorter, the sunlight is less intense and the temperatures cool, trees and other plants produce less and less chlorophyll. They reach a point when chlorophyll production stops and then the green of chlorophyll disappears to unmask the yellows and oranges of the carotenoids that have been in the leaves all the time. In effect, fall color is the absence of chlorophyll that had provided the green pigment throughout the growing season.

Temperature, moisture and cloud cover all have a big effect on how much red color we get from year to year even on the species of trees most likely to redden up. Warm sunny autumn days with cool but not freezing nights, day after day, produce the best years for red colors. In the daytime the leaves still produce sugars as the chlorophyll decreases but cool nights keep the sap from flowing back to the trunk and roots. When these sugars are trapped in the leaves, anthocyanins are produced to recover valuable nitrogen, sulphur and phosphorus from the leaves before they abscess or drop. Saving these last nutrients helps prepare the tree for winter and will give it more energy next spring. This anthocyanin rescue effort, in the right conditions, adds the exciting red, purple and crimson tones to our trees’ fall colors.

Plant more trees to enjoy these fall colors in your yard.

Planting in Oklahoma fall pays off now and in future

Fall is for planting and there are many crops you can plant now. Plant hardy mums for color now and in future years. Plant pansies in a sunny spot for color all winter, even when there is snow on the ground.

Plant ornamental kale and cabbage to make a nice show with their unique colored foliage this fall and sometimes all winter if we don’t get too cold. Plant trees and shrubs to beautify your yard and help clean up the environment now and for decades or even centuries to come. Plant tulips, daffodils, hyacinth, crocus, dutch iris and other spring flowering bulbs to make a big flower show next spring. Many bulbs, particularly daffodils will naturalize to rebloom for years to come. Plant fescue or perennial rye grass seed to green up your winter lawn.

This is the season when everyone gets nervous about losing their annuals and tropicals for the season when we get our first hard freeze. We don’t lose all plants at the same time. Some tender plants will surrender when we drop to the mid thirty’s while other hardier plants or plants in protected micro climates may stay active down to the high twenty’s or even the low twenty’s before freezing out for the year.  We often get a nice Indian Summer of two to six weeks after a freeze or two so many folks try to protect their tomatoes, peppers, other vegetables or showy annuals and hardy mum flowers from the first couple of frosts.  You can cover tender plants with a fabric sheet or blanket or by buying some reemay fabric, using hot caps or wall-o-waters designed to give some extra temperature protection in the garden from these early sporadic freezes.

This is the season when lots of gardeners think about building a hobby greenhouse. There are kits available from under a thousand dollars to over twenty thousand dollars depending on the size, type of glazing, weight of the frame, whether designed for code or non code application and whether the frame is painted a special color. You can build your own wood or metal frame or buy one of these kits to assemble yourself or have installed by a professional crew. The most popular glazings are corrugated and twin wall greenhouse grade polycarbonate panels which have a ten year warranty and should last about twenty years. Fancier glazings include corrugated or twinwall acrylic panels and single layer or insulated glass. Greenhouse grade clear copolymer plastic films would be the least expensive glazing and are available in one and four year films.

Take time to enjoy your fall garden and remember fall is for planting.

‘Fall Is for Planting’ with prices down, supply up

When I was a youngster, years ago, the nursery industry organized a “Fall is for Planting” promotion. Most folks think of spring as the time to plant everything from vegetables to flowering annuals, shrubs, trees, wild flowers and perennials and indeed spring is a good time to plant most crops. The “Fall is for Planting” promotion never got enough funding to really get the word out to the public but the idea is a good one.

Fall is a very good time to plant fescue and rye grass seed, hardy mums, pansies, flowering kale and cabbage, and most of the spring flowering bulbs. Fall is a great time to plant container grown trees and shrubs. Many nurserymen think it is the very best season for planting trees and shrubs as the soil is still warm enough that the roots will still grow and root out into their new environment before the soil freezes. This helps the trees and shrubs get established this fall. Fall planted trees will usually take off much quicker next spring since they will have already rooted into their new soil home. As a result they handle the stress of their first summer better than spring planted trees.

The Oklahoma Nurserymen held their convention this last week and I can tell you that it has been years since this many nice trees and shrubs have been available and at these prices. The economy has slowed down new home and commercial construction and this has resulted in a large supply of nice trees and shrubs on the market. Depending on the size tree or shrub you are considering the nurserymen probably started that plant and committed time and resources to its production 1 ½ to 8 years ago, long before the economy slowed down.  It is always a good idea and a good investment to add trees and shrubs to your property. There has never been a better time to buy and plant trees and the oversupply has reduced prices and resulted in a great availability of just about any species and size tree you want to add to your property.

Take a look at your yard and decide if you need to add trees to your front or back yard to provide shade, save energy, create wind breaks, provide shelter for birds and wildlife, replace trees damaged in recent ice storms or just to beautify the neighborhood. Consider adding trees to your local school, church property or your neighborhood parks. While picking out your hardy mums, pansies, tulip and daffodil bulbs consider buying some trees and shrubs to add to your yard for long term impact because Fall really is for Planting.

Mum’s the word as seasons change in Oklahoma

The middle of September has arrived ever so quickly this year and the first hardy mums are already in bloom. Most all the varieties of hardy chrysanthemums, one of our grand fall traditions are either in bloom or heavily budded and getting ready to bloom. The cooler than usual and moist weather of August is resulting in earlier fall flowers. If you already have some in your yard they probably grew nicely this summer and you can expect literally mounds of color.

If you go to purchase some now from your local garden center they will likely be in bud or bloom and the size you buy will be the size they are for this fall. Once they set buds and flowers the vegetative growth of the plant is complete for this season. If you buy a 6” or 1 gallon plant and enjoy it this fall at that size remember that when it sprouts out next spring and grows all season most varieties will make a mound of 18” to 24” in diameter and 12” to 18” tall.

Most hardy mums in Oklahoma survive our winters and grow nicely through the spring and summer to produce a great fall flower show if watered regularly through the growing season. They are heavy drinkers and respond well to liquid or granular fertilizer during the growing season. You can get many flower styles of cushion mums in all tones of red, bronze, yellow, purple, orange and white to add excitement to your fall garden as each plant can produce bushel basket size mounds of color.

There is still time to apply weed and feed products or pre-emergent weed killers to control winter weeds in your lawn before they germinate. The sooner you apply the pre-emergent the more effective it will be. This is the time to complete your final feedings for the season on your trees and shrubs to insure a healthy root system as they prepare for winter.

State fair time is when spring flowering bulbs usually go out for sale.  I like to wait to plant them until mid October through November but now is a good time to select and buy the biggest, firmest tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocus to have them ready to plant later this fall to produce bright cheerful colors early next spring.  Those gardeners that kept watering and taking care of their tomato plants that didn’t produce well this summer with our unusual weather are being rewarded with great crops of fall tomatoes. At our house we are enjoying fresh tomatoes and peppers with every meal and great bowls of green beans and potatoes as well as eggplant dishes as fall vegetable yields are bountiful.

Questions and Answers…

If you have any questions about gardening, outdoor living, greenhouse growing or anything else that I might be able to help with, please leave your question in the comments section and I will do my steady best to answer!

Take action to control winter weeds

Now is the time to apply pre-emergent herbicides if you want to control winter annual weeds in your warm season grasses.  Pre-emergents can be sprayed or spread as granules.  Most are applied as weed and feed granular products where you feed your lawn at the same time you are applying the weed killer.  There are many good pre-emergent herbicides.  Some of the most popular and broad-spectrum contain Barricade or Prodiamine, Dimension, Trimec or Simizine and they act like birth control to kill the winter weed seeds before they germinate. 

The researchers at OSU recommend application by mid September so you are not feeding your lawn and stimulating too much soft new growth as we approach freezing temperatures.  Many folks still apply fall weed and feed products through October, just remember the pre-emergent weed killers are generally not effective once the weeds have germinated.

Many folks are experiencing a lot of mole and gopher problems this year.  This often means you have a lot of white grubs that they are feeding on.  Apply a product with Imidacloprid or Mach 2 to your lawn areas and water thoroughly to help reduce your grub population.

This is a good time to apply fertilizer to your trees and shrubs, particularly young trees and shrubs to help them prepare for winter.  If you plan to convert any lawn area to tall fescue this fall – usually in late September through October – now is the time to apply glyphosate (Round-up) type post-emergents to kill competing grasses and weeds in the areas to be converted.

My tomato plants don’t have many red fruit but they are absolutely loaded with green fruit after our cooler temperatures and refreshing August rains.  It is too late to plant more tomatoes for this season, but you can still add to your fall vegetable garden.  You can plant collards, lettuce, spinach and Swiss chard for greens.  Consider planting leeks, onions, radish, rutabaga or turnips to produce root crops to use fresh in your kitchen.  You can also plant green peas, kale and kohlrabi to enjoy this fall or plant garlic cloves now to produce next summer.  You may want to find some row cover to have on hand in late October so you can cover and protect your good producing vegetables from any early frosts to stretch out your season.  We often will have 3 to 6 weeks of Indian Summer after the first frost or two and a little protection can give you a lot longer harvest season.

Milder Oklahoma weather has effect on plants

We are enjoying a very unique August in Oklahoma blessed with summer rains and cooler temperatures. When you are farming or gardening the weather is often the most important factor in how your crops perform. When we had the couple of hot weeks back in July the okra was really starting to pod and the squash was really starting to bear. As we have cooled down, the okra and squash, which love really hot weather, have gone more vegetative and are producing less harvest. My tomatoes on the other hand had stopped setting much new fruit when we got up around 100º, as they don’t set flowers well above 90º. Now that we have cooled down my tomatoes are lush green and covered with small fruit. The lesson is that as the weather changes some crops benefit and some face new challenges. The same thing happens with our ornamental plants but overall most of our annuals and perennials are really enjoying the natural refreshing rains and the cooler temperatures. Our ornamental plants are generally under less stress and looking happier at mid August than any year I can remember.

The three things I hear gardeners complain about the most are pulling weeds and fighting grass where they don’t want it, battling insect and disease problems and the time spent watering. Instead of viewing these experiences as a chance to meditate, observe mother nature and to commune with your garden, many folks see these as obstacles that limit their gardening. Mulching is the very best sustainable practice for Oklahoma gardening to help reduce watering and weed pressure. I planted two new similar flowerbeds and top mulched one with 2” of bark mulch and used no mulch on the other. I am watering over twice as often on the unmulched “naked” soil bed and the plants are generally not looking quite as healthy either. Although I still need to do a little weed pulling in the mulched bed I would guess it is facing over 90% less weed pressure than the similar unmulched bed. The mulch is reducing watering by at least 50% and weeds by around 90% and the plants are looking happier. Happier, unstressed plants aren’t bug free but do a better job of resisting insect and disease problems. If you aren’t mulching yet you really ought to try it out. Use any of the many kinds of bark mulches, cottonseed or pecan hulls. Many community gardens even use burlap sacks, flattened cardboard boxes or even pin down old newspapers between plants. It should make your day to know you can recycle this paper and my columns to mulch your flowerbeds.

Horticulture conference reveals trends

How wonderful to end July with rains across much of our state. They have really refreshed our lawns and gardens and give us a chance to visit about something besides mulching and watering in our summer gardens. I just returned from the American Society of Horticultural Science in St. Louis, the annual gathering of all the horticulture professors from across our country. I’m not a professor but I still try to attend to listen to these bright folks talk, to see what research the graduate students and professors have completed and are pursuing.

There were several clear trends this year. Interest in vegetable, fruit, nut and berry or edible food production is up for both home gardeners and commercial producers. We have seen a surge in new gardeners raising tomatoes, peppers, herbs and melons for the first time in traditional gardens, interplanted with ornamentals or in containers. Across the country there is a trend towards locally grown commercial produce including some ornamental growers switching part, or occasionally all, of their production to produce. With the interest in more locally grown produce we are seeing more production of produce and berry crops on plastic film and other mulches, under row covers, under shade cloth, in tall season extending hoop houses and in temperature controlled greenhouses.

There is a lot of research to determine the best varieties, best fertilizer and watering protocols and best production systems for specific crops in regions all across the country. Most everyone expects water to become a bigger issue in the years ahead as costs go up and we stretch scarce resources and limited water distribution systems. There is growing interest in water tolerant natives, breeding other crops to tolerate and even produce fruit or flowers with lower water use. Many are working to refine sprinkler and drip systems to deliver less water, more efficiently as we all work to maintain our lifestyles and yet live a more sustainable life.

Over the last 20 years the research had focused on how much we could fertilize to get maximum plant growth. Now with fertilizer costing more and a commitment to be more sustainable, the fertilizer research is being directed to how low can we feed to meet the plants basic needs and get most of the benefit of fertilization to assure healthy and productive plants. There is significant university research now into organic or low impact fertilizers, fungicides and pesticides. There is a focus on finding good consistent liquid organics that could be applied through drip systems and to find more organic or biological controls that will have mainstream impact like BT (bacillus thuringensis) has had for worm control.